I tried every new Grand Seiko at Watches and Wonders – my favourite surprised me

While the dust may have settled on Watches and Wonders 2025, its impact on my watch-loving habits has not. Many brands took to the show with a wide variety of new pieces in tow, showcasing the best of what they had to offer in the new year.

One evening, I sat down with the team at Grand Seiko. The Japanese brand has long been a favourite here at T3, offering stylish designs and exceptional finishing, along with some genuinely innovative tech inside.

This year was no different – it unveiled a new version of its iconic Spring Drive movement, which was even more accurate. In fact, those are only rated to shift by +/- 20 seconds per year making it the most accurate mechanical movement ever. So, without any further ado, let's take a quick look at the new models.

Grand Seiko SLGC009 Tokyo Lion Tentagraph

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Leaked just moments before the doors to Palexpo swung open, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is just about the most un-Grand Seiko thing one could imagine. a 43mm case diameter. 50mm lug-to-lug width. A 15.6mm thick case which is arched to wrap around your wrist.

For the brand who make beautiful, understated things day-in, day-out, this does feel like something of a departure. And yet on the wrist, I didn't hate it.

Look, no-one is suggesting you'd wear this with your best suit, but for what it is – an aggressive and sporty chronograph – this is a neat option.

Grand Seiko SBDW323 Purple Kiri

That's more like it. A 36.5mm case with a simple, elegant purple dial sees this elegant unisex watch fit snugly into what most people expect from the brand.

There's a manually wound 9S64 movement inside, which is accurate to within +5/-3 seconds per day. It's likely to be the release from the brand which goes most under the radar, but it certainly doesn't deserve it.

Grand Seiko SLGB003

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This was the big one – the introduction of the most accurate mechanical movement ever made. It's called the Spring Drive UFA, and it's a masterpiece, with accuracy of +/- 20 seconds per year.

This model pops that feat of engineering into a 37mm titanium case, with a dial inspired by the beauty of ice forests. It's a magnificent looking thing, too – Grand Seiko make some of the best dials out there, and this is really no exception.

Expect this one to be a very popular choice.

Grand Seiko SLGB001

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Take everything you know and love about the model above. Now swap the titanium case out for one crafted from platinum; swap the bracelet for a gorgeous crocodile leather example.

The result is three and a half times as costly as the standard version – and worth every penny. Look, there's absolutely nothing wrong with the base model, but this one is just... better. The dial, for example, is a deeper shade of blue, and it looks absolutely marvellous.

Limited to just 80 pieces worldwide, you'll need to be quick to secure one – and you'll be infinitely glad you did.

Grand Seiko SLGC007 Tentagraph

Last, but by no means least, here it is – my favourite Grand Seiko from the show. Why, you might ask? Well, it really comes down to external factors.

See, in a world where the waitlist for popular chronographs like the Rolex Daytona are longer than Peter Crouch's nightshirt, any viable alternatives deserve notice. And don't think this is just a cheap clone, either.

The Tentagraph caliber inside beats ten times per second and still offers 72 hours of power reserve overall. Make no mistake – that is fantastic.

The dial is also just lovely. The two-layer design is made to showcase the difference between rocky ridges and freshly fallen snow, and looks really divine on the wrist.

Priced at £12,850 / $14,100 / AU$21,000, it's far from a ludicrous prospect. In fact – given the wider market it sits in – I'd say that this is quite an attractive addition to the brand's range.